Washington Post Foreign
Service
Wednesday, March 4,
2009; Page A11
BOGOTA, Colombia --
Carlos Jaramillo is 39
years old but loves to
dig in the dirt --
especially
the dry, flaky shale
formations of Colombia's
Guajira province. "If
you talk to a
paleontologist," he
explained, "you're
talking to a kid who
never grew up."
For the past five years,
Jaramillo and his team
of paleontologists have
been burrowing ground so
rich in fossils that
they have made the kinds
of discoveries that
thrill the scientific
world. And they still
have years of digging
ahead of them at this
site in the Cerrejon
region of northeastern
Colombia, a remote and
oven-hot place not
unaccustomed to drug
traffickers and the
occasional rebel column.
Last month, an
international group of
scientists revealed in
the journal Nature that
Jaramillo's team had
made a startling
discovery -- a species
of snake larger than a
school bus that ruled
northern South America
60 million years ago.
Evolving after the
extinction of the
dinosaurs, Titanoboa
cerrejonensis -- or
titanic boa from
Cerrejon -- might have
been the largest
vertebrate living on
land at that time, the
Paleocene era.
Indeed, it had an
average length of 43
feet -- far longer than
any of today's pythons
or anacondas -- and it
weighed 2,500 pounds,
more than a small car.
Its diet included giant
turtles and crocodiles
-- Jaramillo's team also
discovered the
fossilized remains of
those creatures under
layers and layers of
dirt and shale.
In all, Jaramillo and
his team have found the
remains of 28 snakes
that measured between 42
and 49 feet. "What we
have is a population of
big snakes," said
Jaramillo, who is
Colombian. "It's not one
snake. It's a bunch of
them."
Funded by the
Smithsonian Institution,
Jaramillo's team -- the
other members are
students working on
their master's or
doctorate degrees -- has
been digging in the most
unusual of sites, the
enormous, open-pit
Cerrejon coal mine.
Worked by some of the
world's biggest mining
multinationals,
Cerrejon's 270 square
miles are filled with
moonlike craters 300
feet deep.
Excavators and earth
movers work without
pause, carting off 32
million metric tons of
coal a year. They also
remove rock and dirt
that the paleontologists
would never be able to
budge -- making it much
easier for Jaramillo's
team to reach the
valuable fossils that he
said are opening a
window on the first
tropical forests that
evolved after the
dinosaurs disappeared.
"They close a pit, and
then they open up a new
pit, so we always have
possibilities,"
Jaramillo said. "I think
we'll have 10, 15 years
to do excavations. We
always find new things."
Arriving for a dig a few
months ago, Jaramillo
scanned the horizon. For
a first-time visitor
accompanying him, it
appeared to be anything
but ground zero for
fossils. Huge trucks
roared past carrying
mounds of coal to be
exported to Europe and
the United States, and
heavy machinery could be
heard in the distance,
kicking up clouds of
dust.
Wearing white work
helmets, Jaramillo and
two members of his team
descended into one of
the pits. They carried
the tools of their trade
-- a light chisel to
brush off dirt and a
hand lens to examine
their discoveries.
Perhaps even more
important is simply
having a sharp eye and a
soft touch. "You need to
train your eyes and you
need to have special
skills to do that,"
Jaramillo explained. "If
you don't have the
skills, you will come
here for a year and
never find anything."
The team's work has
already turned up giant
crocodiles and
freshwater turtles that
weighed 300 pounds.
There are also hundreds
of fossils of leaves so
perfectly preserved that
the paleontologists can
easily make out the
veins and ridges.
"Oh my God, you can tell
the venation very well!"
Jaramillo exclaimed,
examining a leaf
belonging to the Araceae
plant family. "This is
60 million years old. So
it's probably one of the
oldest Araceaes ever
found."
He then showed off the
remains of a recently
discovered anaconda, and
then the fossils of fish
and crabs, too. "This
was like a big delta; it
was a tropical rain
forest," he said. That
may be hard to fathom
today because it rarely
rains in Guajira
province, which is now
mostly home to scrub
grass and small trees.
Jaramillo and other
scientists think the
forest that once thrived
in Cerrejon evolved
after a giant meteorite
hit Mexico's Yucatan
Peninsula. The fossils
they are recovering are
helping to explain how
the forest responded to
that environmental
catastrophe -- and may
provide clues on how the
modern world will react
to, say, global warming.
The team's discoveries
are piling up -- 4,000
fossils of plants,
fruit, flowers and
seeds; 75 turtles, 25
crocodiles, as well as
fish, crabs and other
creatures. The fossils
belong to Colombia but
are on loan to the
Smithsonian Tropical
Research Institute in
Panama and at the
University of Florida at
Gainesville.
Still, Jaramillo
searches for more. He
said each find is like
the chapter of a book.
Pieced together, they
tell a long and complex
story, one that he said
is not yet complete.
"The feeling is amazing,
because we don't know if
here we're going to have
a fantastic flower
nobody has seen for the
last 60 million years,
or perhaps there is
nothing," he said, as he
took a chisel to a mound
he had recovered from
the shale. "So you just
crack the rock open and
hope for the best."